Hanoi’s Old Quarter, with more than a thousand years of history, remains one of Vietnam’s most lively and unusual places. The commercial quarter of the city evolved along side the Red River and the smaller To Lich River, which once flowed through the city centre in an intricate network of canals and waterways teeming with boats. As the waters could rise as high as 8m during the monsoon, dikes, which can still be seen along Tran Quang Khai, were constructed to protect the city.
- In the 13th century, Hanoi’s 36 guilds established themselves here, each taking a different street – hence the original name ’36 streets’, there are more than 50 streets in today’s Old Quarter. Hang means ‘merchandise’ and is usually followed by the name of the product that was traditionally sold in that street. Thus, Pho Hang Gai translates as ‘Silk street’, these days the street name may not indicate what’s sold there, otherwise there would be loads of Pho Hang Du Lich (Tourism street).
- Exploring the maze of back streets is fascinating; some streets open up while others narrow into a warren of alleys. The area is known for its tunnel (or tube) houses – so called because of their narrow frontages and long rooms. These tunnel houses were developed to avoid taxes based on the width of their street frontage. By feudal law, houses were also limited to two storeys and, out of respect for the king, could not be taller than the Royal Palace. These days there are taller buildings, but no real high-rise buildings.
- Opportunities to lighten your load of dong are almost endless. As you wander around you’ll find clothes, cosmetics, fake sunglasses, luxury food, T-shirts, musical instruments, plumbing supplies, herbal medicines, jewellery, religious offerings, spices, woven mats and much, much more.
- Some of the specialized streets include Pho Hang Quat, with its red candlesticks, funeral boxes, flags and temple items, and the more glamorous Pho Hang Gai, with its silk, embroidery, lacquerware, paintings and water puppets – silk sleeping bag liners and elegant ao dai are very popular here. Finally, no trip to the Old Quarter would be complete without a visit to Dong Xuan market which was built after a fire in 1994.
- A stroll through the historic Old Quarter can last anywhere from a few minutes to the better part of a day, depending on your pace and how well you navigate the increasing motor traffic plaguing the streets.