If you’ve never stayed in a homestay then you’re in for a treat. This is when a family designates a room or section of their house for guests to stay. They are cheap and basic but for the most part clean and comfortable, though not particularly private. If you need an en suite bathroom all to yourself, make sure to check in advance as most homestays will not have this.

All real homestays are beyond Sapa, nestled in the ethnic minority villages. There are a few hotels in Sapa that label themselves as homestays, but actually they are guesthouses. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing – these hotels are often charming and friendly – but don’t expect to feel like you’re staying with a family if booking a homestay in town.

The sleeping arrangements are simple: a small mattress on the floor with sheets, a pillow, and a mosquito net. In the winter you’ll get blankets, too. For many people, the highlight is the family meal you have in the evening. You’ll be served a whole range of dishes, such as stir-fried beef with bamboo, grilled chicken with lemongrass, tofu in tomato sauce, and lots of fresh vegetables.

Vegetarian and vegan meals are also possible, though you might find small amounts of fish sauce. If you want vegetarian or vegan food and fish sauce is a no-no, tell your tour operator and remind your guide and chef beforehand. Breakfast is also included, though it’s not as grand as dinner.

Homestays are usually part of a multiday hiking (or biking) trip so you can arrange them through your tour operator, Sapa hotel, or local guide, as most don’t have websites to book on your own.

It is sometimes possible to just turn up at homestays and inquire about accommodation, however you may face language barriers and with last-minute notice, it might not be possible to cook a big dinner for you. That being said, there are a few boutique-styled homestays available to book independently.

• Indigo Snail Boutique Homestay is a charming, trendy homestay in Ta Van Village (a 40-min drive outside of Sapa) with an array of sleeping arrangements to choose from, such as shared dorms for a real local experience, private rooms, and bungalows with en suite bathrooms. The space is run by a Hmong mother of 4 children and includes home-cooked breakfast and dinners.

• Phori’s House is a wooden bungalow nestled into a natural hill in Ta Van Village. The rooms are small but stylish, and the bathrooms have large bathtubs to relax in after a long day of trekking through the mountains. Phori’s House has its own organic vegetable garden to help prepare your meals, and provides fabric bags to help protect the environment.